How to Survive Japan's Death Summer
Its much hotter than you think.
My wife—Japanese—told me the other day that Japanese summers are no longer for hanging out outside. To do so courts death.
Okay, that’s a bit intense but still.
To be serious, consider this: My brother came to visit Japan a few years back. In the summer. He thought he knew what hot weather was. I mean, we used to drive through Death Valley in California with temps well over 100 degrees. No problem. Yeah, it was hot but all you do is get to the shade and drink water and you’re golden baby.
Dude shows up in jeans and a hoodie. In Tokyo. In August. A few days later he was in an emergency room for heat exhaustion with an IV stuck in his arm, with me trying to navigate insurance claims for a foreigner on his behalf. It was under 100 degrees when he got hit but the things that most people don’t factor in are:
The humidity. These levels get over 80% in the summer. As I’m writing this now—in Kyoto—it’s 88%. So even if it’s “only” 95 degrees out, with 80% humidity, wait for it, it feels like it’s 136 degrees out. That is HOT. If Tokyo gets to 100 degrees, which happens in August, the temp feels like it’s over 150.
All the people crowding around. If you’re on a train or even the busy streets of Tokyo, all that body heat pushes up the actual temp well above 100. It’s called the “urban heat effect.” All the big buildings absorb and re-emit heat more intensely than do trees, grass, etc. Moreover, Japan is crazy overtouristed right now. Don’t underestimate how many people are gunning for the same sightseeing spots.
I know, I know. Summer is when you have all your free time! And I’m not saying don’t come in summer, but you need to be prepared for the sun’s death laser.
Sweat and Uniqlo are your friends
Pocari Sweat is an electrolyte drink in Japan. Gross name yeah? But it's a good quick drink to grab to give your body what it needs. Other similar drinks are Aquarius or even tea (Mugicha for example). ALL of these drinks can be found ANYWHERE. All convenience stores (which are ubiquitous) have them. In the big cities, there are vending machines on every corner. No excuse, hydrate!
As for clothing, get ye to Uniqlo! This store has “airism” which is a type of material designed to feel cool in the summer. It also absorbs sweat and doesn’t retain body odor. Many of these stores are open overseas but if you don’t have one nearby, Japan has plenty of them all over the place.
After 11 years of living in Japan, I wouldn’t dare be out all day without hydrating and wearing the right clothing.
Get the F”#K out of Tokyo
Most of Japan, outside of the normal tourist route (Tokyo-Kyoto-Nara-Osaka), will have fewer people. Fewer people are on the trains, so the AC will work better. Fewer people are on the streets, which means getting to your destination faster.
And yeah, it’s hot everywhere. But, if you go to Hokkaido or Tohoku (Aomori-Akita-Iwate-Miyagi) it will be cooler. Take note, it will still be hot, but not as bad as compared to Tokyo.
And don’t get me started on Kyoto. The city lies in the middle of a basin surrounded by mountains which trap in all the humidity making it one of the worst places in Japan to visit in the summer. Thankfully the rest of the year isn’t so bad (though winters are cooler than Tokyo).
Go visit the countryside and get lost in forests, mountains, and lakes, all of which cool things down. The added perk is you’ll also see a side of Japan that is more laid back and interesting in my opinion. Go to Aomori and see the Nebuta festival (image above) from August 1st-2nd and you’ll see what I mean.
Don’t overshoot your limits
I know you’re a strong and brave individual. Great. But Japan’s summer will still kick your ass. I have a Siberian Husky who I have to walk before 7 AM and after 6 PM to avoid the heat. If HE, the little demon energy child that he is, can’t handle the afternoon heat, neither can you.
The heat will make whatever you do seem like a monumental task. So if you have 10 places you gotta see in a day, try whittling that down to 2-4. The heat will sap your strength and if you push too hard, you could get heat stroke.
I know you want to see and do as much as you can while in Japan, but you can’t do much from a hospital bed.
Summer is fun!
Don’t let this article put you off coming in the summer. It is intense but if you’re ready for it you can handle it. Summer is when all the cool local festivals and fireworks shows happen. Young people walk around in traditional yukata, ghost stories are told, and the Japanese cicada sing their songs. I love summer actually. But you need to come prepared.